Le surfeur rentre dans l'eau… s'allonge sur la planche… rame à contre courant… avance… passe par dessus les vagues… par dessous… s’en prend plein la figure… et tout en gardant son équilibre, continue de ramer, ramer, ramer… Ouf ! La barre est passée… moment de répit…ici il peut s'asseoir sur sa planche et se laisser porter par les flots, il se repose, il observe, ressens, s’imprègne. Attentif au mouvement de l’océan… quelle vague décidera-t-il de chevaucher ? Tiens ! En voilà une qui l’inspire ! Notre surfeur s'allonge sur sa planche et rame avec le courant le plus vite possible, la planche prend de la vitesse jusqu’à ce qu’il se sente soulevé par la vague… il doit sentir le moment précis po
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